These are the spring steel parts that we used to build our DRS-23 Econo F/C and our DRS-24 Econo Doorslammer from. (The DRS-23, 24 Chassis have been discontinued.)
Just add .063 piano wire and labor to build your own. Comes complete with guide tongue, front axle, pillowblocks, and motor support and is made for the racer on a budget.

DRS-159 Doorslammer Wire Chassis Kit

DRS-160 Altered/ Funny Car Wire Chassis Kit.

DRS-166 Full Sidewinder Doorslammer Wire Chassis Kit

Clears up to a 58 tooth gear! Assembly Options and Instructions The new DRS-166 is a highly adaptable chassis kit, and can be built in a large number of variations. Before assembly, review the following body mount and configuration options: We also recommend using DRS-161 Chassis Tubing to build your new chassis. This tubing has been used by Bob Herrick since 1987! It IS what is used by the fast crowd. Front Mount – Depending on body type and personal preference, the front of the body may be mounted at two points straight off the front, to the sides of the nose (as shown), or to the axle tube where it meets the body wheel well. Rear Mount – The rear of the body may be mounted with a solid or "floater" tube at the chassis balance point, at the forward, higher upright hole, or the slightly lower rear hole (as shown). Holes are large enough to permit proper "float" with either .050" or .062" tubing.

DRS-167 Full Sidewinder Altered/ F/C Wire Chassis Kit

Clears up to a 58 tooth gear! Assembly Options and Instructions The new DRS-166 is a highly adaptable chassis kit, and can be built in a large number of variations. Before assembly, review the following body mount and configuration options: We also recommend using DRS-161 Chassis Tubing to build your new chassis. This tubing has been used by Bob Herrick since 1987! It IS what is used by the fast crowd. Front Mount – Depending on body type and personal preference, the front of the body may be mounted at two points straight off the front, to the sides of the nose (as shown), or to the axle tube where it meets the body wheel well. Rear Mount – The rear of the body may be mounted with a solid or "floater" tube at the chassis balance point, at the forward, higher upright hole, or the slightly lower rear hole (as shown). Holes are large enough to permit proper "float" with either .050" or .062" tubing.

DRS 176 Pro-Inline Chassis Kit. For "California Style" Hardbody Racing.

We've heard your requests for a real Pro Type Inline Chassis for hardbody racing, and the DRS 176 is the first of several kits we've developed to respond to those needs The "California Style" of hardbody racing makes use of both normal and large, wide, "scale" tires on older, "nostalgia"-style bodies. As model kits of these cars are not as wide as later cars, and generally have a great deal of body tuck-under or curved sides, it makes tire clearance a major headache, even with existing sidewinder chassis and components. With the larger tires, an inline chassis is usually a necessity!

Until now, the choice has been limited in the selection of parts used in the construction of inline chassis. The popular choice has been the brass style, "U-shaped" bracket that fits the rear axle, and has a provision for a screw in motor. This is a stamped and folded piece that can have any number of problems, such as poor alignment of the rear axle (makes the car dog track as it goes down the drag strip) and most importantly, the alignment of the motor and axle! When the motor and axle are not aligned properly, it make a good gear mesh impossible. The axle and motor shaft MUST mounted at the same height.

The first advantage of the DRS 176 solution is the front nose piece. It allows, depending on body type and personal preference, the front of the body to be mounted at two points: straight off the front, or to the sides of the nose. It also has an adjustable front axle mount, and full .050" steel protection for the guide flag, which allows the use of a incredibly wide range of bodies, from muscle car favorites of the '60s and '70s all the way back to Gasser models of the '30s and '40s! And, of course, it will also work equally well with those lexan bodies that have been hard to use with a conventional sidewinder setup.

The DRS 176 chassis features a sturdy, precision .050" steel Motor Tab to mount your motor with screws, and rest assured, our motor tab and pillowblocks are exactly aligned properly for maximum performance. The pillowblocks are sized for 3/32nd axles. No more adapters, and Ball Bearings are now easy to use!

DRS-177 Pro Top Gun Chassis Kit. .025" Material!

I have been racing in a series that runs Top Gun at a 70 gram minimum weight. I found that with my current chassis kits, and using a Studebaker body, the lightest I could get a car without serious modification was about 74-78 grams. Well, with this kit, the same style chassis and body, my car came in at 66 grams ready to race!

If you're looking for a light C-Can chassis, here's your answer! The DRS 177 kit is cut from .025" material, versus the normal .050" material. I also trimmed and hollowed out the individual components in every place that would not compromise the strength or durability of the chassis.

You'll also notice that it comes with a rear wheelie mount that slides into the end of our DRS 161 chassis tubing. This save the hassle of bending this piece from .047' wire. I set mine up with a 4.750" long wheelie bars, then used 4.0" wheelie bar braces. The angle of the wheelie bar brace slots in the pillowblocks are set at this length and angle.