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DRS 100% Recycled tips from years past!

• PURCHASE MINI-TOOLS for your work bench from the Micro Mart. Send for a catalog to Micro Mart, 340 Snyder Avenue, Berkeley Heights, NJ, 07922-1959.
• GRAINGER carries 1 pound rolls of 1/8" diameter Kester solder, Part No. 14-7016-0125, which is 98% tin and 2% silver. Works great for soldering motors to chassis, etc. This and others are on page 875 in their catalog.
• STA-KLEEN FLUX is available from the J.W. Harris Company, 10930 Deerfield Road, Cincinnati, Ohio, 45242. Was available in small dispenser bottles and larger refills.
• FLUX DISPENSER BOTTLES WITH NON-CORRODING TEFLON TIPS are available from McMaster-Carr Industrial Supply Company. See page 2315 of M/C catalog. Their address: PO Box 740100, Atlanta, GA, 30374-0100.
• EASIEST WAY TO REMOVE SOLDER-ON PINIONS is to use a mini propane torch.
• PREVENT YOUR DREMEL #409 THIN CUT-OFF WHEELS FROM SHATTERING SO EASILY by soaking them with transmission fluid. Picked up this trick from Jesse Kensinger. When you open a new tube, just fill it up with the trans. fluid and let the discs soak. Not only will it keep them from breaking so easily, but they will cut through metal much quicker.
• CLEAN PIANO WIRE AND BRASS WITH "NEVER DULL"-a Magic Wadding Polish made by the George Basch Company, Freeport, NY, 11520. Pull off a piece from the can, wipe onto the surface, let sit until white film appears, then wipe off with a clean rag. Works great on steel chassis too.
• CLEAN OFF ACID FLUX AFTER SOLDERING MOTOR TO CHASSIS. Once motor is installed, use hot soapy water and an old toothbrush. Scrubbing neutralizes the acid. Blow out excess water with small air compressor or hair drier. Re-oil bearings and put on power supply.
• NEVER! NEVER! NEVER! SOLDER BALL BEARINGS. Use Loktite bearing retainer on ball bearings. I use Loktite on all my drag car bearings. In a pinch, I've also used Super Glue. Bearings, once worn and in need of replacement, can easily be released with your little mini propane torch.
• CLEANING BALL BEARINGS.  Chuck an axle in a Dremel and spin the bearing while holding on the outer race of the bearing and squirt lighter fluid into the bearing clean and remove old oil, glue and grit.
• SOLDERING OILITES TO STAMPED STEEL CHASSIS: Clean the plating from the holes in the uprights (also called pillow blocks). Tighten down two gears on an axle snug enough to allow the axle to turn. Solder the bearings while spinning the axle on the opposite side between your thumb and forefinger. Once soldered, quench the oilite with oil which is drawn into the pores at 350 degrees.
• CLEANING MOTORS. Clean endbells thoroughly. Move shunt wires out of the way and run a mascara brush through the brush hoods with either lighter fluid or mineral spirits.
• I NEVER USE CONTACT CLEANER ON MOTORS! I have found it leaches graphite off the outside of motor brushes. Besides, (1) it is freon-based and bad for the Ozone; (2) it promotes and induces the quick formation of rust; and (3) it is hard on comms.
• ON ALL MOTORS WITH SHUNT WIRE, I have found braided better than stranded. Trinity and ProSlot have braided, as well as Champion which also have braided copper shunt wire which I like.
• RADIO SHACK HAS ALUMINUM FORCEPS (which have blue handles) and are great for holding wire for soldering. Cost about 89 cents.
• ALWAYS PUT FLAT SPOTS ON AXLES at 120 degrees (or spaced at 1/3's around the axle so set screws will lock gear and tires firmly. Even if a set screw works loose during the race you won't lose a tire.
• ALL WELL PREPARED RACERS ALWAYS HAVE A SPARE AXLE WITH GEAR AND TIRE INSTALLED ON ONE SIDE along with extra spacers and the other tire-ready to be put into a car should the original equipment be ruined during the race and need replacement in a hurry.
• ALWAYS USE TWO EARRING BACKS-one in the front and one in the back and cross the wires between them to aid in self-centering of the guide flag.
• TRICK FOR OPEN MOTORS  Strip 3/4" of the lead wire insulation (where it attaches to the motor) and tin with solder. This extension from the buss bar helps keep open motors cooler, acting somewhat like a heat sink.

Copyright © 1994 1998 Drag Racing Specialties. All rights reserved.
Last modified: September 18, 2004